Bella’s Raspberry Patch
Starting when the girls were young, Andy and I took them to Happy Apple Orchard which is in Penrose, Colorado. We’ve been going to this orchard for years, usually for apple picking but they do grow other fruits including berries and pears. One of our adventures to this farm was for berry picking after which I painted a picture of the girls in the process of picking berries. To this day, it is my favorite painting of the girls. I’ve often wondered if this is when Bella’s interest in growing raspberries started, but then again, her Nana (my mom) also grows raspberries in her garden so perhaps it is a combination of the two. I do know it was my mom who first exposed Bella to the juicy joy of white raspberries. In our last house in Central Park (formerly known as Stapleton) I grew red raspberries. Mom gifted Bella a white raspberry cane and we planted it, but it didn’t do so well, and we sadly lost it the following summer. So as with all things that will be grown on our Boutique farm, this is the raspberry back story!
I am continually amazed at how little I know about gardening as I continue my research for the farm. With each new piece of information, I become more excited and overwhelmed simultaneously as there is so much to remember and do! My hope is that once we secure a property and start to map out the farm, I can also create both a planting and harvesting schedule that will include all the necessary ‘to do’ things such as when to prune, water, etc…, this should (in theory) help us maintain the farm and keep it a joyful place. But, until then, here is bit of information on growing raspberries.
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Raspberry Overview
Raspberry jam is my favorite kind of jam, so it’s not just Bella’s love of this tasty berry that is motivating me to grow raspberries. Once established most types of raspberries will continue to produce fruit for 10 to 15 years, if not longer! Varieties range in flavor, growth habit, fruit color and cold hardiness. As with all the fruit and veggie for the Boutique farm, I will focus on the varieties that grow well in zone 7 and that are cold hardy. Before I get too deep into the details, I thought it best to include a section on raspberry terminology.
Terminology and Plant Types
Raspberry varieties fall under two types, Ever-bearing and Summer bearing, more on that when I go over specific varieties that are under consideration. First, I want to go over the terms that identify the different parts of the raspberry plant to help you (and me) get a clearer picture of where the fruit grows from, this in turn will help identify what to prune!
Canes refer to the stems that grow from the base or crown of the plant.
Primocanes are the first-year canes that spring up from the ground every year. These are fast growing, young green shoots.
Floricanes are second year canes. They usually turn brown and develop a woody exterior appearance. Unlike the Primocanes that put all their growing energy into producing leaves, the Floricances are the ones that produce the flowers and then fruit. This distinction is important when it comes to pruning which ever variety to (or I) opt to grow – prune the wrong cane and you might just deprive yourself of a harvest!
Most raspberries are sold as dormant canes. In the second year, canes reach a minimum of four feet, with several varieties growing much taller. Raspberries grow in full sun to partial sun. Palisade tends to have hot summers so partial sun might be the way to go for Bella’s raspberries.
Raspberries prefer fertile, well-draining soil with a pH between5.5 and 6.6. Given the soil in the East Mesa Orchard area of Palisade seems to be heavy in the clay department, I’m thinking a soil test will be a must. Andy and I are also planning on growing much of the farm in raised beds so this should help with the soil challenge. That said, well-drained soil is crucial because raspberries are prone to root rot and will not tolerate wet feet.
If you aren’t planting in raised beds, create a mound of soil four to six inches high. This planting strategy will raise the canes a bit and help improve drainage.
If you need to amend your soil, rich, organic compost with a nutrient composition will help improve drainage especially when your soil is heavy with clay. Once your raspberries are established a balanced fertilizer geared toward fruiting shrubs with an N-P-K ration 10-10-10 can be used. The best time to apply fertilizer is in early spring, when the primocanes start emerging and again in late spring to early summer.
Space plants a minimum of 24 inches apart in a row, however, keep the rows less than 24 inches wide. This means you will need to remove all canes that venture out past these specific measurements. This might explain why I had some challenges growing raspberries at our last house… the runners were popping up everywhere! The point here is if you keep your raspberries contained within their growing space you will have an easier time harvesting and pruning! If you have a run-away sucker, you need to dig it up! Good news here is that you can replant it somewhere else and start a whole new crop of raspberries.
When planting, keep different varieties in separate locations or rows, this too allows for easier pruning once they fill in. It will also help you keep your varieties organized and help you remember what you planted and where. Labeling the rows is also a good idea!
Raspberries are self-pollinating, that said, bees and other pollinators help improve pollination and overall fruit production. This is one of the reasons the soft fruit sections of the farm will be located near Andy’s bees!
Water plants well until they are established, and during times of drought. As a general rule, raspberries should get about one inch of water every week. A rain gauge is a good device to invest in so you can track your water and provide supplemental watering as needed.
The Best Raspberry Varieties fall into two categories, Summer-bearing and Ever-bearing
Summer Bearing varieties include Boyne, Cascade Delight, Killarney, Raspberry Shortcake, and Royalty. Summer-bearing (also known as June-bearing) produce fruit once a year on two-year-old floricanes, typically in June or July. Summer-bearing varieties generally produce long, relatively weak canes that will require trellises for support. Summer-bearing varieties fruit on primocanes only so don’t expect a harvest in the first year. Once a cane bears fruit, it will die off, this is when you can prune cutting it back to the ground.
More Details on the specific Summer-bearing Varieties
Boyne (zone 3-8)
Known for its excellent flavor, this variety has bright red fruit with a sweet flavor, and it does well throughout most parts of the US. Cold hardy and known for its disease resistance, this summer-bearing raspberry will produce one harvest in early July. Canes will grow to be three to four feet tall at maturity, with an equal spread, and foliage turns orange and red in the fall. Full sun is preferred, but ‘Boyne’ can also be grown in partial shade. Be sure to water it well and expect fruit on canes that are one year old, then prune them back to the ground when they have finished producing.
Cascade Delight (Zones 6-9)
A newer raspberry released in 2003 from Washington State University, ‘Cascade Delight’ produces large, bright red fruit with good flavor that is ready to harvest in July. It is a vigorous grower with medium to large yields, this variety is not cold hardy. It is, however, resistant to Phytophthora root rot. Rootstock will produce fruit the year after planting, on two-year-old canes.
Killarney (Zone 4-7)
A popular cultivar since its release in Canada 1961, ‘Killarney’ is known for being extremely cold tolerant. This summer-bearing raspberry produces medium-sized, medium to dark red fruit with a sweet, delicious flavor. Berries will be ready to harvest in July the year following planting, about a week after fruit ripens on ‘Boyne’ plants
It has upright, sturdy canes that grow moderately fast, and produce medium yields. For added interest, whereas most raspberries produce white flowers in the spring, these blooms pink! It is immune to Raspberry Bushy Dwarf Virus (RBDV). Moderately resistant to root rot and self-pollinating, Killarney should be planted in full sun, in well-draining soil.
Raspberry Shortcake (Zone 5-8)
This dwarf raspberry is perfect for small space gardeners, since it does well in containers. With a mounding habit, a mature height of two to three feet, and an equal spread, plant it in full sun. Its compact form means it won’t require a trellis, and it is self-pollinating so you should still get a productive plant if you only have the space on your patio or balcony to grow one plus, it’s thornless! Raspberry Shortcake requires regular pruning and upkeep and may be more susceptible to disease than other varieties. Keep the soil moist, and do not allow it to dry out between waterings.
Royalty (Zones 4-7)
A hybrid of black and red varieties, this hardy and disease-resistant raspberry is what’s known as a “purple raspberry,” with very large fruit, and delicious flavor. It is a vigorous grower will provide one big harvest on established vines in mid-July. Royalty will reach three to four feet tall at maturity, with an equal spread. It does well at high elevations, with some winter protection and consistent watering in the summertime.
Ever-bearing raspberries produce fruit on primocanes (first-year canes) in the fall. Floricanes (or second-year canes) may produce a harvest again the following summer, typically in June or July. These varieties tend to have a shorter stature, with sturdy canes that do not require support. They fruit on floricanes, the second year canes, in the summer between June and July. But… they also fruit on primocanes, or first year canes, in the fall. Bonus … you get two harvests! Ever-bearing varieties include Anne (white raspberry), Dorman Red, Fall Gold (white raspberry), Heritage, Jewel (black raspberry), Joan J, Polka, and September.
More Details on the specific Ever-bearing Varieties
Anne (zones 4-9) – white raspberry
This everbearing variety produces large golden-hued fruit, and the berries have a sweet flavor that’s described as almost tropical, with a hint of apricot. It is a disease resistant cultivar that grows vigorously. Self-pollinating, you can expect harvests starting in July through the first frost, with improved flavor as the weather starts to cool off. As is the case for all patented varieties, propagation of this type is prohibited. Anne is cold hardy and heat tolerant as well. Plant it in full sun in well-draining soil. Do keep in mind that this raspberry is susceptible to root rot.
Dorman Red (zones 5-9)
This Ever-bearing raspberry produces sweet, red fruit in abundance on fast-growing, thornless canes. You can expect high yields on second-year canes from June through the first frost in September. You should note trellising is required, to keep them from trailing along the ground.
This self-pollinating variety does well in the heat and humidity of southern climates, so Colorado with our dry climate might not be the place for these berries. Plant ’Dorman Red’ in full sun, in well-draining soil.
Fall Gold (zones 4-9) – white raspberry
Fall Gold is an everbearing variety with sweet, tart, golden fruit. It is moderately vigorous and will provide two harvests per season on biennial canes. This raspberry is known for being cold tolerant to -25°F.
It has upright, thorn-covered canes that reach a height of 24 to 36 inches at maturity, which means it is more compact than other types. It grows well throughout most of the United States if given full sun. In truth, it is a type of red raspberry with a mutation that prevents the production of the red hue that these berries usually have. Yellow (white) raspberries share many of the same characteristics as red raspberries in terms of care requirements. It is important to prune Fall Gold and other everbearing types carefully, since the fall crop will be produced on the top third of canes, with the second crop developing on the bottom two thirds of the same canes the following spring.
Heritage (zones 4-8)
Medium-sized, bright red fruit with a mild flavor, this everbearing raspberry will produce a harvest in mid-July, and another in early September. It is disease resistant and highly productive. They grow fast and you can anticipate fruit in the first year of growth. The canes reach a mature height of three to four feet, with an equal spread. Their yellow and orange fall foliage adds visual interest to the garden.
The Heritage raspberry does best in full sun, however it will produce fruit in partial shade as well. Good news for Coloradoans, it can be grown at higher elevations. You will need to provide it with some protection during the winter and be sure to water well during the growing season. You can expect lower yields and a shorter harvest season in cold climates.
Jewel (zones 3-8)
Love black raspberries? The Jewel, also known as ‘Jewel Black’ is the berry for you! This cross-bred produces red fruit that darkens to black when ripe in late June to early July. Its’ berries are medium to large and sweet, with excellent flavor and few seeds. This makes the Jewel perfect for canning!
This self-pollinating and cold hardy plant grows quickly, with 24- to 36-inch canes at maturity if planted in well-draining soil in full sun. It can however also have lower yields, so best to plant more for cross-pollination and more abundant harvests. Do not let these raspberries dry out in the summer and aim to keep moisture levels steady. Pruning is crucial for the Jewel – remember to cut back dead wood and all two-year-old canes to the ground in the spring but leave the last year’s growth standing.
One note to keep in mind when planting: experts note that black raspberries should not be planted within 75 feet of other varieties of other colors as they may be more susceptible to disease transmitted between plants by such beasties as aphids (more on disease and pests later in this blog post)!
Joan J (zones 4-8)
The Joan J is a thornless, everbearing raspberry that produces small to medium, sweet, firm, dark red fruit in July, August, and mid-September for medium-sized harvests. With a mature height of four to five feet and a spread of two fee, the Joan J is a vigorous grower that should be planted in full sun. It is susceptible to root rot, so also make sure you plant it in well-draining soil. Joan J is self-pollinating and very cold hardy, you’ll get even bigger harvests if you plant it with another variety, like ‘Polka.’
Polka (zones 4-8)
Similar to Joan J, Polka is a hardy raspberry with few thorns. It reaches a mature height of four to six feet with a spread of one to two feet, and abundant yields. These berries are Juicy and sweet with a mild flavor, they have a pale to dark red color when they’re ready to pick.
Polka will produce fruit from July through the first frost in September. They are known for ripening first at the beginning of the season, in comparison to other varieties. Polka are self-pollinating and cold hardy. Growing multiple plants isn’t necessary, though it will help to ensure larger harvests. Another added benefit to the Polka is it is not very susceptible to root rot!
September (zones 4-8)
The last of the Ever-bearing I will cover in this blog post, the September grows upright and reaches four to six feet at maturity, with an equal spread. It produces sweet red or yellow berries and reaches maturity on second year canes in the summer, and again on first year canes in the fall. This raspberry can grow in a variety of soil types, in full AND partial sun. It is also cold hardy! Unlike the Joan J and Polka, the September canes do have quite a few thorns and the new canes are produced via suckers (not good if you want your raspberries in a well maintained and contained area!
Pruning and Trellising
Pruning has always been something I struggle with as I’ve never been sure when to do it! So hopefully this will help address this unknown for both you and me. If you choose a variety that has thorns, remember to wear your gloves! In the fall, once plants bear fruit and leaves begin to die back, cut all floricanes to ground level. Also, in the spring, when new growth emerges, you’ll want to check for any diseased, small, or weak canes. If you have any, all l of these should be removed.
If canes grow to be too tall to manage, you may choose to prune them back to a good height, around 5 to 6 feet. Make a nice clean cut just above a set of leaves. And always be sure to use clean pruners, to prevent the spread of disease. The general rule of thumb is to not cut back more than a quarter of the cane. If you do, you will significantly reduce the amount of fruit that you get to harvest which is of course counterproductive, so be mindful of that.
Thinning your patch will improve your harvest, by giving the strongest canes more energy to produce larger fruit. Wait until spring to thin plants. This way, you can tell which canes made it through the winter and which ones didn’t. As a guide, leave the six strongest canes for every foot of row. If you choose not to thin out your patch, you’ll end up with a higher yield of smaller fruit.
Keep in mind: If you have everbearing plants and you’re trying to encourage two harvests, you should be careful not to cut back floricanes too soon. What you can do instead is trim the tips of the floricanes on Everbearing raspberries where the fruit formed in the fall. Cut these back to where green growth appears the following spring.
You can expect Ever-bearing varieties to produce a summer crop on the bottom hal of the floricane. These raspberries flower and produce fruit on primcanes until frost hits, then they go dormant and pick up where they left off the following spring. The downside to this is, if you live in a area with a mild climate, you may not get much of a summer harvest from the Ever-bearing raspberry. If this is your situation, you can prune an Ever-bearing the same way you would the Summer-bearing varieties which is after it is done fruiting in the fall, cut it back to the ground.
Most of the Everbearing varieties are short and sturdy and therefore are not in need of trellising. The summer-bearing raspberries on the other hand, have longer and weaker canes and will require support such as trellising.
Trellises can come in a number of forms, with the most common type being post and wire. With this support, you install posts along the raspberry row and string wire from post to post that the cane is then wrapped around. The canes will grow and rest on the wire lines. You can also tie the canes to the wire which will make harvesting easier.
If you live in a high wind area, which Palisade tends to have, trellises are a great way to protect canes against the aggressive winds. When using a trellis there are a few key points to keep in mind:
Make sure it can provide strong structural support, once the raspberries are established the canes will put a lot of weight on the wire so the trellis needs to be sturdy. To do this, make sure your supports are set into the ground a couple of feet deep and braced. The wires stretching from post to post should also be pulled as tight as possible. Also make sure your posts are set close enough together to prevent sagging in the middle.
The next thing you will need to consider is the height. First determine how tall your chosen raspberry will be at maturity. You can always prune the canes if they are too tall, but you must remember that rule of thumb measurement so that you don’t impact your harvest. There are several methods for tying and training your raspberries. One strategy would be to bend the tips of the canes into an arc and tie them to the trellis wire. Another way would be to create a v-shape growing pattern down the entire row of berries, this method is similar to how grape vines are trained in vineyards. Tying and trellising makes harvesting the berries so much easier so it is worth doing a bit of research into which method works best for your gardening needs.
Harvesting
The trick to harvesting your raspberries is to beat the birds to it! Otherwise, harvesting these tasty morsels is pretty straight forward, when they look ripe, you gently loosen them from the plant and eat them. If the berry which is attached by its white center (called the receptacle or torus) does not separate from the plant easily, that means it is not fully ripe and not ready to be harvested. The berry itself is made up of individual sections called drupelets and each one contains a seed. An important thing to remember is berries do not continue to ripen once you’ve picked them, so despite the threat birds, you want to keep them on the cane until they are fully ripe.
Raspberries also bruise easily so be gentle when you pick them. Harvesting them early in the morning when the fruit is still cool will help prevent bruising. You don’t need pruners to harvest your berries, just use your fingers and if you have a variety that has thorns, gloves come in handy, as do wearing long sleeves!
You might have company when picking your raspberries as wasps and bees are also a fan and love to sip the sweet juice from these fresh, sun ripened fruit. You will also want to avoid picking berries that have holes, mold, or other visible signs of damage. Fresh pick berries should be eaten right away, but they can be stored in the refrigerator for a brief period. If you store them, do not wash them until you are ready to eat them, this will help prolong their shelf life. Be gentile when washing and use either a colander or fine mesh strainer.
Problems, Pests and Diseases
I’ve already mentioned wasps and bees (although bees aren’t really a problem as they help with pollination). Anthracnose, spur blight, and cane blight are all diseases to look out for. In late summer to early fall, look for any spots or canker-like growths on the canes. A benefit to thinking and pruning your plants early on is that it will increase airflow which reduces the possibility of disease.
Luckily fungal diseases don’t affect the roots, primocanes must be infected by floricanes for these diseases to occur. Water is the number one way fungal spores travel so using a drip system verses watering from above will avoid splashing water which is how the spores travel. It is also important to water early in the morning so leaves have time to dry out before the coolness of night sets in.
Cut any floricanes that are finished flowering back to the ground immediately after harvest, especially if they show any signs of disease. Verticillium wilt is another fungal disease, and this one can actually kill the entire plant. Avoid growing your raspberries near tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, or potatoes as all these are susceptible to verticillium wilt – this might explain what happened to Bella’s raspberries in our urban garden!
To further avoid fungal diseases, keep the area around the raspberries free of plant debris, this includes leaves, pruned cuttings and uprooted weeds. The fewer war, moist places for fungal spores to hangout the better.
Beside diseases, other pests include birds, aphids, and Japanese beetles (the bane of my roses at our last house!) You can use netting to keep birds away, and ladybugs or a strong blast of the hose to take care of aphids. Japanese beetles can be hand picked off the plant. Another thing to look out for is sunburned fruit, this appears as white spots and is only cosmetic. If sunny hot weather occurs as the fruit is ripening, you can cover it with a shade cloth and that should help avoid sunburn!
And with that I’ve reached the end of my raspberry research, for now anyway… I’m thinking that once I have these fruits, perhaps all my fruits planted and established in our boutique farm, I need to then begin research and share tasty recipes that focus on the fruits of my labor (ha get the pun?)
Next up from the Boutique farm research… Blackberries!
